
Every other Saturday, my host family brings croissants and coffee to some men from Africa who live by the river. These men left their families in order to provide for them through securing a job in Spain, but given the current economic crisis (almost 20% unemployed), they have no work. During one conversation I had with one of the guys, he told me that his family calls him every now and then to see how he's doing, and what is gonna tell them? That the reason he hasn't been calling them is because the two euros it costs for one minute of conversation has to instead be spent on bread? No, he said. He tells them that life is going wonderfully, that he just bought a car last week and his company just gave him a promotion--because these lies are the promises his family holds onto amidst poverty, what his father can brag about with his friends, what gives his younger siblings hope about their own futures, why his mother can sleep at night.
After one of these Saturdays, my host dad pointed to the men walking off in the distance and told me that they leave when it seems appropriate, not because they have somewhere to go; they just wander around the city, crossing the same street light as the rushed businessman and the tardy-hating school children. After a couple of turns, they cross it again--with another set of businessmen and children. I didn't think much of this, until I came across Bhalak at a crosswalk. He is still learning Spanish, but he managed to ask me where I was going. I told him that I was headed to class and then returned the question before I could think. He just shrugged; there was nowhere to go except the next step and the next and the next. Walking with nowhere to go is one thing, but walking this way with a bustle of people who have places to go and people to see--I cannot imagine the kind of raw loneliness he must feel. I realized there was nothing I could say to make him feel less uncomfortable, so we gave each other parting smiles to cover up what we could not make go away.
So on Saturday, instead of breakfast, we decided to host a great big paella party at a nearby camping ground. It was a marvelous, fresh air in your diaphragms kind of day, and we did everything together: cooked together, ate together, sang together. Some of my new African friends sang a song from their homeland upon my request, and upon theirs, I sang one of my favorites [and one with lyrics I actually remembered]--"Amazing Grace." Their song, they told me, is a sad ballad usually sung when soldiers march through different lands during a time of war. Spanish is a second language for both of us, and it has quite nicely allowed us to have some very thoughtful conversations. But there was something about them singing to me in their native tongue about a journey that is not too different from theirs as sojourners, while I sung in my heart language about the lost being found--that proved to be a moment of connection. While neither I nor they could understand each other's words, I realized that our songs were conversing with each other about faith and brokenness; the need to keep on walking, hope--things that I hope touch our actual conversations one day.
So anyways, we ate paella. They played the drums, some played an intense game of soccer, we talked, and it was a wonderful time. Since my camera battery was low, I wasn't planning on taking many pictures, but they insisted, and we managed to record some memories (which they made me promise to send via e-mail as they gave me little bits of paper with their addresses on them).
This is where I end. Where I tie up this post in a neat little string and pretend like this wonderful get-together made their troubles go away. But as some of the men taught us some fun African chants and dances, I noticed Bhalak sitting on a bench by himself. I sat next to him and asked him what he was thinking about. Papeles y trabajo. Spanish doesn't come easily to him, but I know that he meant getting legal papers and finding work. These goals, and the futility in achieving them, was all he could think about. In the midst of conviviality, Bhalak's sad, stressed expression reminded me that the difficulties in life don't magically disappear no matter now many times we try to blink them away. So that is why I cannot end this post in such a way because that would not be fair to Bhalak, who is probably wandering the streets right now. There is hope, I believe that. But it doesn't come from me or a job or a paella party or some legal papers. And I pray that one day they won't have to wander anymore.